How Long Should your Home Last?

When you're buying a home, new or old, you typically want to understand exactly how long it's going to last. What is your investment going to mean in the future? If you plan to move into a house to spend your life in, you want it to last as long as you will! 

Naturally, the quality of appliances and the home, as well as how it has been treated in the past or will be treated in the future will all effect longevity.

CAHPI ( the Canadian Association of Home and Property Inspectors ) has made a list that breaks down the lifespan of certain features of your home. Read below for a better understanding of your home or the home you are planning to buy!

Appliances:

Of the major appliances in a home, gas stoves have the longest life expectancy at 15 years. Dryers and refrigerators last about 13 years. Appliances with the shortest life spans are compactors (six years), dishwashers (nine years) and microwave ovens (nine years). Some appliances don't meet their life expectancy, however, because changes in styling, technology and consumer preferences may make newer products more desirable. Also, how long they last depends on how much they are used.

Tankless water heaters last more than 20 years, while an electric or gas water heater has a life expectancy of about 10 years.

Decks
The life span of these can vary significantly according to different climates, but they should be around for a good 20 years under ideal conditions.

Doors
Exterior fiberglass, steel and wood doors will last as long as the house stands, while vinyl and screen doors have life expectancies of 20 and 40 years respectively. Closet doors are expected to last a lifetime, French doors for 30 to 50 years.

Flooring
All natural wood flooring, marble, slate and granite will last for 100 years if they are well taken care of. Vinyl floors will endure for up to 50 years, linoleum about 25 years and carpet between eight and 10 years, depending on traffic and care.

Aluminum windows last between 15 and 20 years, while wooden windows can last upwards of 30 years.

Footings and Foundations
Poured as well as concrete block footings and foundations last a lifetime, assuming they were properly built. Termite proofing will protect foundations for about 12 years if the chemical barriers put in place during construction are left intact. Waterproofing with bituminous coating can start to spring leaks in 10 years, unless it cracks, in which case mortal damage is immediate. Concrete or cast iron waste pipes are made to last a century at least.

Poured-concrete systems, timber frame houses and structural insulated panels will all last a lifetime, as will wall panels and roof and floor trusses. Softwood, hardboard and plywood average 30 years, while OSB and particleboard last twice as long.

Heating, Venting and Air Conditioning
HVAC systems need proper and regular maintenance in order to work, but even when they are pampered most of their components last only 15 to 25 years. Furnaces live for 15 to 20 years, heat pumps for 16 and air conditioning 10 to 15. Thermostats usually are replaced before the end of their 35-year life span because of technological
improvements.

Insulation and Infiltration Barriers
Cellulose, fiberglass and foam used in insulation materials will last a lifetime provided that they are not punctured, cut or burned; are kept dry; and are not subjected to UV rays. This pertains whether the insulation was applied as loose fill, house wrap or batts and rolls.

Roofing & Siding
Slate, copper and clay/concrete roofs have a 50-year life expectancy; asphalt-shingle roofs, 20 years; fiber cement shingles, 25 years; and wood shakes, 30 years. However, the life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, proper building and design, material quality and adequate maintenance.

Outside materials typically last a lifetime. Brick, engineered wood, both natural and manufactured stone and fiber cement will last as long as the house. Exterior wood shutters are expected to last 20 years, depending on the weather. Gutters made of copper can last 50 years, of aluminum, 20. Copper downspouts last 100 years or more; aluminum, 30 years.

Site and Landscaping
Most landscaping elements have a life expectancy of 15 to 25 years. Sprinklers and valves last 20 years; underground PVC piping, 25 years. Polyvinyl fences are designed to last a lifetime, and asphalt driveways should last up to 15 to 20 years. Tennis courts can last a lifetime if they receive a new coat when they need one every 12 to 15 years. The concrete shell of a pool should do swimmingly for more than 25 years; the interior plaster and tile will start showing their age in about 10 to 25 years.

Walls, Ceilings and Finishes
They should last as long as the home, and over a lifetime should only require minimum repair and up keep if the home is treated fair.


We hope this guide answered some of your questions about the longevity of certain home features! Keep updated for more at HomeCrafters.net

10 Easy Ways to Speed Up Your Home Inspection!

A home inspection is a practical and necessary part of selling any home, and sometimes what an inspector finds could delay the closing. This can be frustrating for the seller - no one wants to hear that something is wrong with their home. So if you`re looking to sell, but you aren`t sure exactly what issues may be hiding in the nooks and crannies, but here is a short and easy tip list that you, the seller, can use before an inspection takes place. By following these suggestions, the inspection will go smoother with much fewer concerns.



1. Confirm that water, electric and gas service are on, with gas pilot lights burning.

Home Inspectors will need to make sure all utility services are running smoothly, and that there aren`t electrical issues or plausible leaks.

2. Keep pets out of the way!

While you may love your furry addition to the family, they may be quick to get under feet or aggravate allergies. Try and keep them out of the home or secured outside.

3. Replace burned out bulbs

This is to avoid a `Light is Inoperable` statement while testing the electrical. This could suggest something as easy to fix as a light replacement or something as serious as electrical issues.

4. Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and replace dead batteries.

Both will be tested during an inspection and the buyer will be keen to know their safety is secured with well working equipment.

5. Clean or replace dirty HVAC air filters. They should fit securely.

Make sure nothing is clogged that could be blocking the air flow.

6. Close up holes near the attic or around the roof.

Nobody wants squirrels or raccoons in the attic, so make sure to close up entry ways before the inspector can point them out.


7. Remove items blocking access to HVAC equipment, electric service panels, water heaters, attics and crawl spaces.

To allow the inspection to go smoothly and promptly, make sure there are no areas where an inspector may be hindered. Such as boxes piled up in front of the electrical panel.

8. Unlock areas the inspector must access - attic doors or hatches, electric service panels, closets, fence gates and crawl spaces.

A build off of the previous point - make sure the inspector has easy access to various places in the home. Refusing to open some of these spaces can make it appear that you are hiding something which could make the buyer uneasy, and also keep the inspector from doing their job to the fullest.

9. Trim tree limbs and shrubs from the house to allow access.

Branch limbs should be cut to at least 10`` away from the roof, and all shrubbery kept clean will allow the Home Inspector to inspect the foundation and grading of the home easily.  Messy yards can also be an aesthetic turn-off for home buyers, as branches can be damaging to the sides of your home or debris could be clogging the gutters.

10. Attend to broken or missing items.

Doorknobs, locks and latches, windowpanes, screens and locks, gutters, downspouts and chimney caps - all should be replaced if you are able. It`s not attractive to a buyer in the first place, but they could also lead to safety concerns that will be pointed out by the inspector.




Checking these areas before your home inspection is an investment in selling your property. You can save yourself a lot of headache in the long run following a Home Inspector`s report, and your real estate agent will thank you!

Strange Feelings? 10 RED FLAGS of Potential New Home!

               

Almost all Home-Buyers hire a home inspector to examine the home they want to purchase, and it's considered largely impractical to   inspect every home that you may be looking at. If there's a home that   seems right for you, and you are willing to put an offer on it - that's   the one you want an inspection on.

Now, no home is perfect and there will always be some minor   problems with any house that you are looking at. However, by being   observant and using your senses you may be able to make a realistic   assessment of the conditions of the home. Or, if you're a realtor, you can save your client a lot of headache.

Here are some of the obvious red flags that may lead you to believe that the home you are looking at may have some problems that are beyond what may be considered normal wear and tear of the property.

We can start by examining the exterior of the home:

THE EXTERIOR

Poor grading:

 

If the ground around the foundation doesn’t slope away from the house, it could be causing water to run down the foundation walls and into the basement. It is recommended that the ground slope away about one inch per foot to ensure proper drainage away from the basement. The main cause of basement moisture problems is poor grading and roof gutters that do not extend away from the home by at least 4-5 feet.

Foundation cracks:

The vast majority of concrete basement cracks are of no concern. They are a result of shrinkage in the concrete as it cures. Cracks can also be caused by minor settlement, which is not unusual. The cracks will usually form in the middle portion of the basement. These cracks are vertical in nature and are fairly even in width. Cracks that are larger than ¼ inch in width and are not vertical in nature can indicate a more significant amount settlement in the foundation and may require further investigation. In fact, we have a whole article on what foundation cracks you should be wary of here.

Roof coverings:

Asphalt shingles have a life cycle of about 20 years while wooden roof coverings have a life cycle between 25-30 years.

The slope of the roof ( the stepper the better) and the colour (the lighter the better as it will reflect the heat) are usually the determining feature of your roofs life span. When looking at any roof a fairly good evaluation can be done by standing back and looking up at it from the ground. If the shingles are curled at the edges and do not lay flat they are nearing the end of their life and will probably need to be replaced sometime in the near future.

IN THE BASEMENT

Mildew smells:

Have you ever gotten that sour smell from an old dishcloth? Well that's mildew, and it can occur in other places in your home where there's a moisture issue.

Mildew odors in the basement mean it probably suffers from water seepage. This is best detected when you first go into the basement as your senses will get accustomed to the odor quickly and it will not be as notable over a short period of time.

If there are a number of air fresheners present, the homeowner may be trying to cover up these odors. It is important to note that some basements in the summer will seem a bit damp and cool. This is natural, as most sellers will turn off the heat during the warmer months and there's often poor venting in a basement.

Basement storage:

The way items are stored in the basement could reveal some information about potential moisture, leakage, cracks or other problems. If the homeowner has their belongings located in all areas of the basement, you may feel that they are not worried about basement moisture or leakage problems. If you see belongings located up on shelves or pallets and nothing on the floor in the basement, you may get the feeling that they are experiencing some moisture issues. Other times, you might observe all items piled up in a certain part of the basement. This may indicate a problem is trying to be concealed. Be wary, and don't be afraid to ask questions!

Basement stains:

Be aware of brown water stains on the walls. These stains will appear as wavy watermark lines on the drywall or basement framing. You may see rust on nails or staples in the vapor barrier at the bottom of the wall. Look for these especially in the areas where the outside downspouts are near the basement. Other clues of moisture problems may be freshly painted walls or basement floor.

IN THE HOUSE

Stains:

Look for stains on the ceilings in areas under kitchens or bathrooms. Often these stains are from prior roof, toilet, plumbing fixtures or kitchen appliance leaks. Water can travel so it’s best not to assume that the source of the leak is directly above the stain. The home inspector will use a moisture meter to determine if there is an ongoing problem.

Grow ops:

There is an increasing and surprising number of homes that have been former illegal grow ops. Here are a list of some clues, that when observed altogether, may lead to the assumption that a grow operation inhabited this home. We also have a video here on recognizing a home that could possibly have been a former grow op.

• Red tape residue around ducts or vent pipes.
• Spray foam sealing any openings in the ceiling. 
  
• Lots of staples in the floor joists and unexplained screw holes.
  
• Signs of soil, plant pot circles on the floor or other types of things that you would not normally find in a basement.
  
• Look under the electrical panel for damage to the basement wall where the electrical system may have been breached to steal power.
  

Older homes:

There are many things about old houses that are not necessarily a big problem, but may cause some extra headaches and costs to the new Home-buyer. Old knob and tube wiring may need to be replaced. Some homes may have old steel water lines that some insurance companies may want replaced. Old 60 amp services will need to be upgraded to 100 amp. Aluminum wiring that was used from the mid 1960s to the mid 1970s can also be a concern for insurance companies. Old windows, furnaces and many other things may need to be replaced or upgraded over time. The new homeowner needs to be aware of these additional costs if they're going to invest in an older home.

Strange Feelings:

In the dead of winter, when all the windows are open, candles are burning in every room, incense plug ins are situated in every outlet and the heat is on at full blast, you may be genuinely suspicious that there is something not quite right about this house. If the homeowner is refusing to let you view all parts of the house OR is refusing to allow something to be turned on, you may again be suspicious that there is a problem.

So just remember, not every house is perfect, but some houses are less perfect than others. Keep your eyes and ears open and you may be able to spot problems in a potential home!

Small leak, BIG waste!

Is your toilet leaking and costing you more on your water bill?


Do you feel as though you're spending a lot more on your water bill than you should be?

Take the leaky toilet test!







One in four toilets is silently leaking, wasting up to 28 bathtubs full of water every month - that's about enough to cost you $100.00 on your water bill per year. Considering that the average Canadian home as two bathrooms, you run a higher risk of one or both of your toilets falling victim to untraceable leakage.

So how do you check your toilet to see if there's a leak on your own, without having to call a professional?

Step 1: Check your toilet flapper first.



Inexpensive and easy to replace, the flapper is the number one culprit for most leaky toilets. Your toilet's flapper holds water in the tank, but over time its seal can wear out, causing a silent leak. If it's no longer sticking where it should, water's going to snake through the seams and you wouldn't even know it.


How to check your flapper:

• Rub the bottom of your flapper with your finger.  If you get streaks of rubber, the flapper should be replaced.
• Take your old flapper with you to the store when purchasing a replacement.  This ensures you get the right part for the job.
• Install your new flapper and take the leaky toilet test again to ensure you've stopped the leak.

Another quick test to see if you have a leak is to put a few drops of food colouring into your tank, give it 20 minutes and then check your toilet bowl.  If the colour has seeped into the bowl, you definitely have a leak!

Next you have to determine where this leak is coming from.

To check, look at the waterline.  If the water level is below the overflow tube, follow Step 2 below.  If the water is spilling into the overflow tube, follow Step 3 below.

Step 2:  Flapper Leak - The chain that controls the flapper may need to be adjusted for the flapper to sit properly on the valve seat.  If the chain is kinked, replace it with a ball-type chain.  If needed, tighten the nut that holds the toilet handle to adjust the trip lever properly.  Your toilet may run on because the valve seat is corroded or covered with mineral deposits.  Drain the toilet tank by flushing, then dry the valve seat and sand it smooth with sand paper.

Step 3:  Water Level - Your tank water level might be too high, allowing water to run into the overflow pipe.  Turn the float rod adjusting screw clockwise to lower the water level one or two centimeters below the overflow tube.  Replace the screw if it's corroded or stripped. Make sure the refill tube is securely inside the overflow tube and no deeper than five centimeters.







And that's all there is to it! You've now been able to check your toilet for the dreaded silent leak, and hopefully with these easy steps you're able to save $100.00 - money that you no longer are literally flushing down the toilet.

Cracks - How you can recognize serious damage in your foundation.

Foundation Cracks

Cracks in your foundation can be a serious defect, or they can of no real concern - so how do you tell the difference? What's kind of issue is going to end up really costing you? Hopefully the following will help you recognize the difference when looking at your own home, or one you propose to buy.

As concrete dries it shrinks, which often causes small cracks along the foundation, commonly known as hairline cracks. The faster the concrete dries, the more it shrinks. The higher the water content in the mix, the more it shrinks. It's going to happen to young and old homes alike, so don't feel too concerned about the small cracks running along the foundation of your newly-built house.

These shrinkage cracks normally develop at windows, doors, beam pockets or other penetrations. Usually these hairline cracks, no bigger than the thickness of a dime and no cause for concern. They're relatively unavoidable, and are the most common type of crack, almost every home is going to have them.

Larger cracks may or may not be a concern but should be checked by a qualified individual. The Alberta New Home Warranty Program Performance Guide states: “Cracks are not unusual in concrete foundation walls. Such cracks greater than 1/8 inch are considered excessive.”

Well that's good to know - right? Most often the cracks in your home won't cause you much grief. So which ones will?

The main concern is Structural Movement in the foundation.

If there is displacement, the concrete will be uneven from one side of the crack to the other. This movement usually indicates external pressure on the foundation wall, which must be investigated, or it could be that the wall was damaged during construction. Older buildings are more susceptible to this time of crack, but poor construction or architectural design could be at fault. Sometimes it could've been a bad home renovation or as serious as decay.

Horizontal cracks in a foundation are more uncommon but can be stabilized without major expense as long as the cause is not ongoing and there has not been large displacement in the foundation.

There are a number of factors that will cause horizontal cracking or movement.

Backfill heights:

Backfill is a type of water drainage placed around your home's foundation. Overfilling this can cause pressure and form horizontal cracks.

Frost, heavy traffic and tree roots:

Overgrown roots and overloaded vehicles can cause pressure on your foundation.

Movement in the foundation can be caused by any number of factors. Larger type cracks in foundations are caused by settlement in the footings or pressures from below forcing the footings up or pressures from the outside of the foundation. Foundation walls (footings) that have heaved upwards are caused by inadequate frost protection for the footings or expansive soils.

A high clay content in the soil below the footing, together with water can cause extreme damage to foundations. The source of the water must be found and eliminated.

The amount of movement and age of the structure should always be taken into consideration.

Some examples for foundation movement are as follows:

Soil types and water pressure:

Certain soil types may be looser or have inadequate water drainage. If your home is settled on various different soils, it may not sink evenly and part of your home may begin breaking due to the uneven surfacing.

Frost pressure, Lot Configurations and Excavation Differences:

Movement in a foundation wall is usually more serious and should always be analyzed by a professional.

Common Foundation Repairs

These types of repairs need to be designed and approved by a person specializing in foundation repairs preferably a structural engineer. These repairs can be quite costly.

Wall or Footing Settlement

Mud jacking or hydraulic jacking and under pinning of the footing may be required to stabilize the foundation that is dropping or settling.

  

Displaced foundation wall cracks may need to be reinforced or stabilized. 

  

The vast majorities of foundation cracks are of no concern, but should be investigated and reported on by an expert. The expert’s written report is not only important for your purchase and peace of mind, but to show to a future buyer when you sell so that you, nor your possible future buyer are investing in hidden risks.

We hope this helped you understand a little bit more about your home, new or old, and will prepare you for the future you have together!

Spring is here, Spring is here!

We're well into May already, so it's time to talk about spring cleaning.

I know, I know, now you have to start cleaning the windows and beating down the rugs. It's going to be a long day, but isn't it always great to start the year off fresh and new?

However, spring cleaning should not just be limited to the usual airing out the home and packing old belongings away into boxes for the summer garage sales, no. Something that every home owner should consider when you break into your spring routine is regular home maintenance. This is a good time to do an annual check to make sure your home is still running smoothly and that the appliances and various structures around the home are still going to serve you faithfully for the years to come. Not only functionally, but aesthetically as well.

If you own or rent an apartment or condominium, some of these may apply and some you may have to speak with your building manager, landlord or condo board about seeing to some of the maintenance checks down below.

There are many things to look at, and we've provided a comprehensive list to get you started.

Why not start by taking a walk around your house?

To maintain a quality image of your home, make sure to check if the exterior of your home is clean and well painted. After months (or years) of rain, snow, wind and who knows what else, the outside of your house may have taken something of a beating. Normally it takes about five or six years for a home's paint-job to start to wear thin, but if you notice loose paint you should sand it off. Use this walk around as a chance to inspect the caulking (sealant) as well. Since caulking helps control the inflow of outside noise and to prevent heat loss and moisture damage in the home, it is important that if you see any deteriorating areas to scrape it out and reapply new sealant to the area.

While you're doing this walk around be sure to check your window and door sills for similar issues. The caulking may need reapplying there as well, or bent frames may need replacing. You should also be looking to ensure the door screens are clean and if there are holes that need to replaced to prevent insects or other pests from coming indoors. After all, it doesn't take a big space for a mosquito to climb in and make themselves right at home. It follows to double check that the door fits in the frame correctly, leaving no spaces along the frame where it may be crooked or warped. You'll let out heat and let in bugs with an unsecured door, and can also be an issue for your home's security as well.

Next, it would be a good idea that if the weather is agreeable, to clean out your gutters and downspouts. Gutter neglect can be common because you don't necessarily see everything that gathers up in there, but there can be costly structural damage if they're not regularly maintained. Too much debris can cause the troughs to sag or become unsecured. It's also important to see that there aren't any damages in the gutters as you're cleaning them such as leaks or sagging, and to make sure the downspouts are secured to the side of the house. If you're unsure if an area is damaged, run a hose through to ensure that it's draining properly.

Since you're up there, you might as well check your roof out. Now, as a rule of thumb you should not climb onto your roof, and if you have major concerns you should contact a licensed professional to look at it for you. A damaged or aged roof can be dangerous and can do you more harm than good. Call a Home Inspector or Roofing Professional to do it for you! Don't take an unnecessary risk.

However, from up on a ladder you should be able to inspect the flashings for damages, and if there are any problems with the style of roofing. For asphalt damages you are looking to see if there are any asphalt granules collecting in the eaves, or curling of the shingles, which is a clear sign of aging. For wood, considerable warping in the roof could be a symptom of wood rot. Metal roofs come in many different styles so they each have different signs of wearing or aging, but you would most commonly look for rusting or corrosion. Also to be sure to check for wear on all interruptions on the plane of the roof such as chimneys, vent pipes, and etcetera. As mentioned previously, if you notice any grievous issues with your roof, call a professional to do a more in depth investigation. Safety first!

Now, if you have a deck, you should try to have it treated every couple of years (along with wooden fencing if you have it). Decks take a lot of weather wear in general, but they also take on pets, children, guests that you may have over, and yourself. If the stain is looking dull or the wood is muddy-grey, make sure to have it retreated. Give it a wash with a pressure washer and make sure to replace or fix any damaged boards. Not only can it be an eyesore, but brittle or warped boards can cause a major safety hazard for you and anyone on the deck.

Last, but certainly not least, it is imperative that you check the landscape and foundation of your home. While most may want to just fertilize their lawn and be done with it, you should look to make sure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation. If it is level or worse yet, inverse, this can cause pooling of moisture against these walls and seepage/leaks can occur in your basement to cause significant water damage.

And then you can fertilize your lawn.

And weed it, trim it...you know. The works. Keeping vegetation around your home trimmed can prevent scratching off the paint or damaging the siding.

Another word of advice about maintaining the landscape around your home would be to not fall victim to the current trend of paving over your front or back lawn. Lawn maintenance may be laborious and tedious and more room for more cars may sound preferable but it can have serious detriments. Vegetation helps to naturally and effectively drain water, and the more lawns that are converted into driveways, the more likely there will be an occurrence of flooding. A little bit of extra convenience may end up costing you heavily, as flood damage can not just cause detrimental water damage to your basement, but also ruin stored valuables or even ruin the foundation of your home forcing it to be condemned.

The flood in 2013 caused over 5 billion dollars in property damages and also cost many people their homes and belongings, so keep it in mind before you pave the yard over. When water was nowhere to go, its going into your home.

But after all that, that's all! You've just done a top to bottom check on the outside of your house, now you can make it presentable for that garage sale we were just talking about. Remember, maintaining your home will not only ensure that it will last a lifetime for you and your family, but it will mean that if you ever plan to sell your home it will be more attractive to buyers. You will also be more likely to pass a conditional home inspection, since these are just some of things we keep an eye out for when looking at your house.

If you aren't sure about what needs doing around your home, you should call HomeCrafters Home Inspection Services - we will be happy to go through the checklist for you!

HOME INSPECTION BUSINESS REGULATION

Fair Trade Act

For the complete Regulation, please click:

HOME INSPECTION BUSINESSREGULATION

Alberta Government Services put out legislation back in September 2011 to license all Alberta Home Inspectors.

Not all Home Inspectors are complying with the legislation.

Be protected! Follow the instructions below to check if the Home Inspector you use is listed and licensed.  

Go to: Service Alberta's Search

Leave "Business Name/d.b.a:" empty

Use the drop down box to pick: Home Inspectors

Then type in CALGARY and press Submit.  

A list of all Registered and Licensed Inspectors will be there. 

There are serious dangers to hiring an unlicensed inspector, namely: Errors & Omissions Insurance.  An unlicensed inspector doesn't necessarily have to have E&O Insurance leaving you hanging if they miss anything.

What liability are you taking on by not Seeing the license of the professional inspector you use?  

Do not be afraid to ask!

All Inspectors are now required by law to carry prove of their Government License – ASK to see it!

 

The CBC in Edmonton pulled off a sting operation with Alberta Government Services to catch known inspectors who were practicing but were not licensed.

These inspectors had no problem lying, telling the Services Alberta representative that they were licensed.

The penalty for operating without a license is severe.   

The liability is even greater – protect yourself, protect your Client!